2010-02-07

Minnet av svunna tider i Rohet Garh


Jag sitter i rottingfåtölj på innergården till Rohet Garh, palatset som tillhör vicekungen av Rohet.

Rohet är en liten by i öknen fyra mil söder om miljonstaden Jodhpur i delstaten Rajasthan.

Familjen Singh har styrt över området ända sen 1500-talet. Över sig hade man maharajan i Jodhpur, som i sin tur lydde under mogulhärskarna och sedan1800-talet under britterna.

1947, när Indien blev självständigt, var det slut med den politiska makt man hade.

Fram till 1971 behöll man ett årligt apange, alltså ett ekonomiskt bidrag, från indiska staten. Men nu får man klara sig själva.

Familjen Singh byggde om sitt palats till hotell. Häststallarna blev dubbelrum, liksom garagen för familjens bilar. Gårdsplanen framför garagen grävdes ut och blev en swimmingpool.

Husen runtomkring är låga och jordgula med ljusröda dekorationer och orientaliska portiker. Man känner sig som en statist i en historisk film om indiska maharajor.
På muren framför entrén finns det målningar av medeltida soldater, hästar och elefanter.

Receptionisten pratar en överdrivet artig gammaldags brittisk engelska.

Det är mer som är typiskt brittiskt här: te och toast med fruktgelé till frukost och klockan fyra varje eftermiddag är det afternoon tea i trädgården. Då vimlar familjen Singh med hotellgästerna och pratar kanske om morgonens ridtur i öknen eller morgondagens jeepsafari till byarna runtomkring.

På kvällarna hör man trummor, mässingsblås, smällare och fyrverkerier från byn intill.

Det är bröllopssäsong och varje kväll är det minst ett par bröllop i byn, då brudgummen rider bygatan fram på en paljettsmyckad häst medan hans vänner och släktingar går och dansar i procession framför honom.

Palatset är inte fläckfritt. Tvärtom är det ganska anfrätt av tidens tand. Putsen har lossnat och färgen flagnar här och där.

Men det är ju det som är charmen.

Jag känner mig förflyttad bakåt i tiden då vicekungar och kungar styrde och de olika vicekungadömena krigade med varandra om heder och ära, makt och territorier. Och senare när de spelade polo och jagade läppbjörn och tiger och umgicks med de brittiska brittiska kolonisatörerna.

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